Zimmer Heating & Cooling Testimonials

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Have any questions related to yor HVAC systems? Let Zimmer Heating & Cooling help you find the answer. Simply post your questions below, and one of our HVAC experts will help you reach the optimal comfort in your home.

If you are having trouble or experiencing an HVAC emergency, please call our 24/7 Service Line at 513-521-9893 for immediate assistance.

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#15 Patti ward 2017-10-11 02:12
I have a Lennox 5000 Comfort series l5711u thermostat. When running the air conditioner I will have the temperature set at 68 degrees. My AC will run and run and it will state on the thermostat that the current temperature is 68° but I know my house is colder than that. I will switch it over to heat mode and the heat will kick on and run for a while until the house heats up to 68 degrees. Why is my system not shutting off when it hits the correct temperature.?

Patti;

It appears the thermostat has failed to disengage the cooling signal. It appears the thermostat needs replacing.
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#14 Joanne 2017-06-14 13:50
Do you service replace units that are part of a dual system. My house has radiant heat and I have 2 a/c units one of which has a freon leak. If it cant be repaired and I have to replace it do I need to replace both units?
Thanks...

Joanne;
The system in question would only replacing. If the other system is working; there would be no need to replace at this time. We can give guidance on the second system when evaluating the one in question.
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#13 Reinhard 2017-05-03 01:12
We have a Carrier Performance 96 2-stage gas furnace and an older Carrier Performance Series electric Heat Pump configured in a dual-fuel configuration using a newer Performance series Edge thermostat. Because the gas furnace is our only gas appliance, I have our gas shut off each year in May under the assumption that any minor remaining cold spell could be handled by the heat pump operating independently of the gas furnace. I've tested that theory today and it doesn't seem to work that way. The gas is shut-off. I've turned the thermostat on "Heat" and the house temperature is low enough for the heat to kick on. The blower starts and runs for about 2 minutes then it stops. The furnace flashes a "34" on the status light indicating "Ignition Proving Failure". Can I configure the thermostat or do something to force the heat pump to run without the furnace itself trying to run? The furnace can run w/o the heat pump, why can't the heat pump run with just the blower and no furnace?


Reinhard

In the thermostat there is a setting to make the heat pump work longer. Need to lower the lock out temperature bringing the furnace on at a very low temperature.ie 25 degrees.
This will make the heat pump do all the work.
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#12 Mark 2017-04-06 15:32
Quoting MARK WEIHE:
does anyone know how to convert a 10 year old infinity system furnace with a heat pump to by pass the solid state control board and just use a conventional t-state and conventional wiring to contacts


Mark;
The cost would out weigh bypassing the controls with a standard thermostat. The system will not function properly without the required controls.
There has been an upgrade in the thermostat control to enhance the functionality of the system. Feel free to contact us for further questions.
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#11 MARK WEIHE 2017-04-06 15:02
does anyone know how to convert a 10 year old infinity system furnace with a heat pump to by pass the solid state control board and just use a conventional t-state and conventional wiring to contacts
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#10 Kristen 2017-01-15 00:15
We have a Carrier Infinity system for our heat pump. The zone button on the thermostat no longer works. Is there a non Infinity thermostat that we can replace it with? The cost of the Carrier thermostat is ridiculous..

Thanks!

Kristen
The Infinity Zone thermostat must be replaced with another Infinity thermostat. The cost to convert the whole system would astronomical.
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#9 Sarah 2013-10-28 16:54
It doesn't appear that my blower is working in my furnace. The AC is pumping cool air into the box but it is not pushed to the rest of the house. The AC hose was dripping water from the condensation before I turned of the AC. I tried the self-test for the blower but it doesn't work. Is there anything else I can do to try to get the blower working?

Thanks for any insight you can give me!
Sarah,

There appears to be 2 possible options. First the blower motor has failed, or the relay to turn the blower has failed. A slight possibility is the thermostat is not sending the signal to turn the blower on. Either way, a service call is in order.
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#8 Calvin 2013-10-28 16:53
Checking for a reply to previously submitted question about multiple cracks in heat exchanger, under burner parts,... service tech said the only repair is to replace entire furnace unit, is this true ?
True depends on a few questions:

a: Is the the furnace under any manufacturers warranty.Typica lly 20 years from date of manufacturing the furnace. Some furnaces have a factory lifetime warranty if you are the original purchaser.
b: Is the heat exchanger available?
c: Is the cost to replace the heat exchanger replacement make sense or replacing the furnace.

Most importantly; DID THE TECHNICIAN TURN THE FURNACE OFF! Finding cracks in a heat exchanger can be a hazard.

I would gladly discuss the options with you to make a good sound decision.
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#7 Allison 2013-10-28 16:52
I am looking at purchasing an older home that currently uses boiler heat. I am wondering what total costs I can expect to get a new HVAC system installed? I have no idea what the duct work currently looks like. The home is a 2,000 square foot ranch.
Allison;

To even start on what is needed for a new HVAC system is to have a visit to the home. The information to start a budget process would require that we look at the home to see what type of system is usable.Please contact our company for further information and thank you for the excellent question.

Chris Zimmer
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#6 Josh 2013-10-28 16:49
My a/c provider says he has to provide the calculated unit for my square feet. The problem is, it does not keep up with the outside unit. My house will not cool below 75. Not to mention the unit does not ever shut off. It is a brand new house and insulated well. Shouldn't I be able to get my house to at least 72? Is it possible they are not being honest and have undercut the correct unit i need? How can i find out?
Josh
Most newer homes should have a 15 to 20 degree differential from inside to outside. When the temps. are over 90 outside the best a home could be is 15 to 20 degrees cooler. Check with your builder to find which was used to determine a problem or not.
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